Category: Travel

Pemberton Down Days and Thoughts On Snowmobile Skiing

Posted by – March 22, 2011

By the end of February, ski conditions in Pemberton, BC had taken a bit of a turn for the worse and I briefly contemplated pulling the plug and heading back to Colorado. Sustained winds, cold temperatures, and no new snow had conspired to create poor conditions, especially in the alpine which is where I really wanted to be. Still, if there is one thing I know about the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, it’s that they can go from “zero to hero” faster than just about anywhere else I know. So I stuck it out.

Susan and I tried to find some good snow in a heavily trafficked area that we hoped was sheltered enough. The views were nice. It’s hard to see, but there were some really rowdy and exposed spines in the alpine above Susan.
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We found a mixed bag of conditions on our ski descent. I’ll include this photo, since it speaks volumes. Susan loves to ski, and with an infant at home, skiing is no longer an everyday event like it once was. So despite the non-perfect terrain or conditions, she was still pretty darn stoked just to be out there, making some turns. I should probably try to remember that the next time I’m out on a mediocre day.
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In any case, I found myself at Blackcomb a lot over the next few days, since skiing hardpack is better than not skiing at all. One fine day, the winds hit nearly 150km/hr and shut down most of the mountain. Regardless, one day I met up with my friend Gavin, who had shown me around Whitewater last year. He and his new bride Veronica asked me about the snowmobile skiing I had been doing and whether they should get into it or not. I’ve thought a lot about that lately, so here are my thoughts.

Here in Crested Butte, I consider it a no-brainer. $1,000 gets you something that can get you up a groomed road and a lot more options in areas that get a lot more snow. A little more money will get you an older-style mountain sled that can access most everything else. Most of the trailheads are pretty simple, so just about any trailer and vehicle will take care of things.

Up in Pemberton, things are bigger, harder, and ultimately, better. But the costs are way bigger. First off, the trailheads are tough to get to without a big truck and a sled bed, so that’s the first cost my friend Gavin needs to consider. A cheap sled won’t cut it, so I think at least a few grand per snowmobile is a place to start. We’re already off to a big investment here, but there’s more: the time investment learning how to ride. Sure, the really popular areas like Brandywine or the Pemberton Icecap might get enough tracks to simply follow, but what’s the fun in that? I’ve been riding snowmobiles for a while, but I still felt pretty helpless at times up there without a better rider (usually Jon) with me. So add in a lot of miles dedicated to snowmobiling, not skiing, to the investment. Meanwhile, the Whistler area has a lot of good skiing available from the lifts as well as on the Duffey road. No snowmobile is required for classics like Joffre and Fissile. So in the end, my advice to Gavin is to ski everything he can without a snowmobile first, and then consider getting one down the road. What do you guys think? good advice or bad?

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

Trandem Trees, BC 2.23.11

Posted by – March 17, 2011

We awoke the morning of the 23rd with hopes and aspirations of skiing a pretty big line. Jon really wanted to get Brittany and I on something big and scary (and for us, fun), and the weather was forecast to be nice and sunny. Unfortunately, the clear weather was the result of an “arctic outflow”, as they call it up there. As the name implies, the temperatures plummeted to numbers well below zero Fahrenheit, accompanied by some wind and humidity. Big lines with possible ropework and windslabs started to sound like a bad idea in those conditions, so tree skiing plan B was adopted.

With only three snowmobiles, four skiers, and an easy sled road to follow, “Trandem laps” became the plan of the day (3 people, one sled). It’s goofy, but it works:
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Though cold (both Brittany and I got some frostnip on our faces), it was a gorgeous day. A look back at the terrain I skied my first day in Pemberton:
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And “Norain”, Brittany’s first day:
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Despite the wind, we we on a generally protected slope, so it was nearly perfect conditions on varied terrain with pillows, chutes, and actually pretty steep terrain (notice the sluff piles everywhere). On with some pics…
Frank:
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Pemberton Day 2: “O” Face 2.20.11

Posted by – March 3, 2011

Day 2 in Pemberton featured a return to a peak I skied the last time I visited the area, but thankfully it’s a great mountain that even got some time in MSP’s movie Yearbook. Both Jon and Susan were able to join me, with their young baby watched over by Grandma, plus their friend Jim who crushed the snowmobile approach through the woods in over a meter of new snow. After that, it was nothing but pure gluttony- 6 laps on a roughly 2,000′ face with less than 20′ of climbing per lap. Just step off the snowmobile and go…

The face:
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A few photos of Jon:
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Nice spot to park a snowmobile:
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Jon and Susan, psyched to be skiing together:
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We skied in the same area the following day and I took this photo of our tracks on the O face. Yeah, it was good. Notice the figure 8′s thrown in by Jon and Jim just for kicks.
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The video contains all 6 runs, with the bottom flat turns edited out. It also has one of the snowmobile tandems up, which were almost as much fun as the skiing on the way down. It’s a little long for a POV for some people, but it was also some spectacular skiing and I hope you enjoy it as it’s some of the best footage I’ve gotten (and getting photos on this face was next to impossible anyway)

O Face 2-20-11 from 14erskiers on Vimeo.

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

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Video From Pemberton Day 1

Posted by – March 1, 2011

I got my video together from my first day up here in Pemberton. I was skiing pretty tentatively, as I was sleep deprived and trying to get my bearings, but it was still a pretty awesome day. Check it out:

Pemberton Day 1 spines from 14erskiers on Vimeo.

Pemberton Day 1: The No Sleep Spines

Posted by – February 27, 2011

After arriving at my friends, place and turning off the lights around 3am, (see previous post) I couldn’t get close to falling asleep. My brain kept me white-knuckling through the Star Wars Lightspeed snowflakes for 3 or 4 hours of tossing and turning before the knock on the door told me it was time to get up. “I don’t think I can make it”, I said, as I was as wired as I’ve ever been. “It’s going to be the day of the year”, Jon said, so despite the total lack of sleep I packed up and I’m glad I did because it was the exact kind of day I drove all the way up here for.

We met Jon’s friends Dave and Delaney and I quickly realized why everyone up here rides their snowmobiles in soft boots with their ski boots packed away- the approaches aren’t groomed like I’m generally used to in Colorado and the road had exactly 1,739 whoop-de-do’s to negotiate along the way. OK, I didn’t really count, but it was a nasty road anyway you slice it. But once we got up high, it was easy to see that it was going to be a day to remember, with 2+ feet of fresh that was continental dry, but maritime solid. I love this place.

Shuttle after shuttle, the runs kept getting better as we gradually worked up to the bigger lines. I’ll let some photos do the talking. Jon:
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Find Dave:
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A sequence of Delaney:
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The scenery was OK:
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Sometimes you’ve got to mix it up and ski the opposite of a spine:
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Part of my impetus for being here was to ski some of Jack’s favorite lines, and see some of his favorite peaks, and those goals were accomplished on day one, along with some unbelievably stellar skiing. I’ve got some POV that I’ll get to soon, so consider the photos a bit of a teaser.

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Update- Video is up HERE.

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

Roadtrip 2011: Stevens Pass 2-17-11

Posted by – February 23, 2011

As much as I love the skiing in Crested Butte, sometimes you just gotta get out of town and ski some different terrain. I’ll be spending the next 2-3 weeks up here in Pemberton, BC, but I needed to make a quick stop in Leavenworth, WA to visit my friend Stone Parker along the way. Stone makes amazing rings, and since Brittany and I are in the market for a couple of rings, I crashed at his house to talk shop and get guided around his home area of Stevens Pass while I was at it. First I had to check out the faux Bavarian village of Leavenworth. Nobody told me I was going to run into “Der Radhaus”, as the local ski shop is called, but everything in this town is named in some kind of “Germerican”, as I will choose to call this relative of “Spanglish”. Sort of cool and cheesy at the same time…
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In any case, the skiing at Stevens didn’t disappoint. I’d long heard great things about the mountain, and as long as it isn’t raining, as it often does here in WA, Stevens sits solidly in my top ten list for North American Ski Areas. It never hurts to have an awesome guide like Stone, either. Some sampling of the terrain:
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One of Stone’s friends:
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Self-portrait somewhere in the vicinity:
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It was hard enough chasing Stone around without stopping to take photos, so POV will have to suffice. Most of the video was a short hike from the area, although there is plenty of in-bounds terrain that is just as good. They’re just so spoiled here that the thought of skiing something with more than one track is nearly unthinkable.

Stevens Pass 2-17-11 from 14erskiers on Vimeo.

I tried to roll out of Steven’s with plenty of time to make it through the border crossing and arrive in Pemberton at a reasonable hour. Sometimes the border is a piece of cake, sometimes it’s a pain in the butt. Sadly, on this trip I got the latter, with a full search of the truck and accusations that I was moving to Canada. I tried to tell them I would have been taking a lot more skis and my bike as well if I was, but they weren’t buying it. Meanwhile, a storm was brewing in North Vancouver that continued all the way through Whistler. A couple of one-hour delays on the highway and a crazy game of “weave through the stuck cars” eventually got me to Pemberton around 3am- a 12 hour drive that usually takes half that. I snapped one photo during a good part of the drive- I’d have to call this drive one of the worst I’ve ever done:
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In the end it was worth it, and we got to ski the beer spines (names will be withheld and made-up on this trip) the next day, but more on that later…

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

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Mexico Volcanoes: November 2000 (Part 2)

Posted by – October 25, 2010

CONTINUED FROM PART 1

After climbing Orizaba, we headed back to Tlachichuca and from there towards Mexico City and our hoped-for third summit, Iztaccihuatl, or Izta for short. Izta (17,159′) is Mexico’s third highest summit, behind Orizaba and Popocatepetl (17,802′). Popo, as it is commonly called, was a popular climb for many years but was quite active when we were there, and remains so today. Just weeks after we left, in fact, Popo had its largest eruption in 1200 years and forced the evacuation of many people living in the area.

Izta and Popo are forever intertwined in Aztec mythology. From Wikipedia: In Aztec mythology, Iztaccíhuatl was a princess who fell in love with Popocatépetl, one of her father’s warriors. The king sent Popocatépetl to war in Oaxaca, promising him Iztaccíhuatl as his wife when he would return (which Iztaccíhuatl’s father presumed he would not). Iztaccíhuatl was falsely told Popocatépetl had died in battle, and believing the news, she died of grief. When Popocatépetl returned to find his love dead, he took her body to a spot outside Tenochtitlan and kneeled by her grave. The gods covered them with snow and changed them into mountains. Iztaccíhuatl’s mountain is called “White Woman” (from the nahuatl iztac “white” and cihuatl “woman”) because it resembles a woman sleeping on her back, and is often covered with snow. (The peak is sometimes nicknamed La Mujer Dormida (“The Sleeping Woman”).) He became the volcano Popocatépetl, raining fire on Earth in blind rage at the loss of his beloved. This mythology is evident for climbers in the naming of prominent features and routes on Izta, such as the cabeza (head) and rodillas (knees).

We decided to spend some time enjoying the culture before attempting Izta. We spent some time in the large city of Puebla, but then headed to nearby Cholula, a smaller town nevertheless quite familiar to Americans thanks to the hot sauce of the same name which is made there. We spent one day touring this cathedral, which is actually placed directly on top of a pyramid (a common tactic of the Spanish conquistadors) which pre-dates the Aztec culture. We were also able to tour the ancient pyramid below:
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Mexico Volcanoes: November 2000 (Part 1)

Posted by – October 23, 2010

November in the Colorado High Country can be a little rough. A smattering of snow often shuts the bike season down, and yet all too often the skiing is marginal at best. Ten years ago, I traveled to Mexico with the aim of climbing Mexico’s high volcanoes, which includes North America’s third highest peak, Pico de Orizaba, at 18,490′. This remains one of the better November escapes I’ve done, so despite having only scanned photos and ten year old information, I decided a TR was in order anyway.

Scott Yost, Shelly Higgins and I flew in to Mexico City in the middle of the night and slept on the floor right there at the airport, not wanting to go out into the world’s 3rd largest city in the middle of the night. Many parties will choose to spend some time in the city acclimating, since Mexico City is at 7,350′, but we made our way straight to the town of Apizaco via bus since we were all coming from Crested Butte at roughly 9,000′. Throughout our travels, we took taxis and buses wherever we were going, which I would strongly recommend as it was quite easy, cheap, and safe. Apizaco is a really nice little town that is often used as a base for ascents of La Malinche (aka Matlalcueitl)(14,646′), which we were to use as a warm-up climb. Apizaco:
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Butterknife Trail 10.17.10

Posted by – October 19, 2010

After stuffing ourselves with a Whole Enchilada the day before, we left the junk show that is Moab in the fall and found ourselves back in Grand Junction at the lunch loops. Some local friends of ours, Ann and Mike, raved about the Butterknife trail, describing it as the best trail the Grand Valley has to offer. While it could certainly be combined with other lunch loop trails, we chose to drive to the “Third Flats” trailhead and go from there.
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The Whole Enchilada: Moab, Utah 10.16.10

Posted by – October 18, 2010

Several years ago, I heard my first whispers of a trail that started high in the La Sal mountains above Moab which eventually connected with the Porcupine Rim trail and finished at the Colorado river, thousands of feet below. At the time, I’m not sure how legal this route was in its’ entirety, but these days it’s becoming Moab’s signature ride. Brittany and I had hoped to ride it the previous weekend, but Brittany caught a cold and we retreated back to Crested Butte. With a high point of 11,200′, we decided it was now or never if we still wanted to ride the Enchilada this season before snowstorms shut it down. A big group of our friends were already headed that way, so we ended up as a group of 8 when we boarded the shuttle Saturday morning. Several shuttle companies will take riders up to Geyser Pass for $25, which is well worth the cost given the length of the drive.

Several other shuttle companies were dropping their customers off around the same time as our group, giving us a taste of the crowds which would be the norm for the day. We quickly descended a few hundred feet from Geyser Pass at 10,600 before beginning the climb towards Burro Pass.
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I’ve always thought of the La Sals as a magical place, so close to the desert and yet so far away. Everything about the Whole Enchilada so far felt just like home. The descent off Burro Pass felt just like a number of trails found in Colorado. Rob:
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