Category: Travel

Portugal and The Azores Highest Point: Montanha Do Pico 7,713′

Posted by – August 16, 2011

Our first glimpse of the Azores from the plane was that of Montanha Do Pico (or just plain Pico), peaking out above the clouds:
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Needless to say, climbing this stately mountain quickly became one of my goals for our time on the islands. The desire to climb the mountain only increased during our time on the Azores, since the peak is almost always within sight, always beckoning an adventurous climber. Sure, at 7,713′ it sits well below the elevation where I now write this TR here in Crested Butte, but then again the Atlantic ocean isn’t exactly a couple of miles away, either. While it’s generally easy to get around on the islands with nothing more than your feet or a bicycle, the easiest way to climb Pico utilizes a car to get to the trailhead. Since we had a car reserved for July 10th, that became our summit day and thankfully the weather was perfect. Brittany decided the downclimb would be too tough on her knees, but she urged me to go anyway, knowing I was pretty excited about it.

Climbing Pico is a bit of a different affair than most other mountains. The trailhead is also a visitor’s center; where climbers must sign in, watch a safety video, and obtain a GPS/radio unit, all of which is free. With that out of the way, it was time to start climbing the steep, loose, and eroded trail, and start counting trail markers- all 45 of them to the crater rim:
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Clouds came in and out, as they always seemed to on Pico, which at times provided some surreal views as if I were back on the airplane, or climbing the “Mountains of the Moon” in Africa.
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Five Hours in Lisbon

Posted by – August 3, 2011

After a stressful drive from Cardona to Barcelona, thanks to an accident that nearly made us miss our flight, Brittany and I found ourselves in Lisbon, Portugal. With five hours to kill before our connecting flight to Horta in the Azores, we decided to do a quick tour of the city rather than sit in the airport for half the day. Whether or not we can claim to have “been to” Lisbon is a question that is open to debate, but we liked what we did see. What we saw was a clean, history-filled city with lots to do and a bit of Moorish influence.

We had a quick lunch in this square. Prices were fairly reasonable, much like Spain, despite the awful exchange rate.
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Lisbon is famous for its trollies, but from what we understand they are becoming rare in this city.
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Portugal, and Spain to a smaller extent, is also known for its black and white decorative paving which adds a touch of flair to the ground you’re walking on.
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That’s about it for our whirlwind tour of Lisbon. Here’s our other honeymoon TR’s:
Complete List of Honeymoon Trip Reports:
Barcelona
Gaudi
Spanish Pyrenees
Climb of Tosa d’Alp
Cardona Castle
Montserrat
Five hours in Lisbon
Horta Part I
Horta Part II
Island of Faial
Island of Pico, Day 1
Portugal and The Azores Highest Point: Montanha Do Pico 7,713′
Watching Whales & Swimming with Dolphins
Pico Adegas, Gardens, and More
Island of Pico

Montserrat

Posted by – August 1, 2011

Montserrat is an impressive looking mountain chain just North of Barcelona, but it’s perhaps best known as the site of a Benedictine abbey, not to mention the home of the Holy Grail, if you believe some myths. Brittany and I visited it on our last day in Spain before heading off to the Azores Islands. Like Machu Pichu, many Buddhist Temples, or even Mesa Verde here in Colorado, the first question a visitor asks is “Why would you want to build in such a difficult location?”
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A Pyrenees Summit: Tosa d’Alp and Andorra

Posted by – July 22, 2011

On our final day in the Pyrenees, Brittany and I set our sights on an easy summit that would still allow us time to visit the tiny country of Andorra. From Baga, we headed up the road to the Coll de Pal at 6,800′. Like almost every road we drove on in this area, I couldn’t help but think of how fun it would be on a road bike. The weather was a bit threatening, but we decided to at least check it out.
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Check out our rental car behind me- a Skoda Fabia. Due to its’ sub-100hp engine, I started calling it the “Skadita”.
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We started hiking up the beautiful grassy slopes in a light rain, but I had a good feeling it would burn off as the day wore on (which it did).
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It’s a pretty straightforward hike, but we were treated to some sights we don’t see back home inColorado, like these Chamois:
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As well as this vulture, which this area is particularly well-known for:
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The views were pretty amazing:
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Barcelona: The works of Antoni Gaudi

Posted by – July 19, 2011

Much of our time in Barcelona was spent visiting the architectural marvels of Antoni Gaudi, not surprising given how inextricably linked Gaudi and Barcelona are. Seven of his works are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, no small feat for an architect, let alone one whose works are only 100 years old or so. As someone who works in the trades and has an appreciation for the art form that is architecture, I found Gaudi’s work to be beautiful, interesting, and definitely the work of a genius.

Our first stop was Casa Batllo, a residential unit right on the Rambla, and probably my favorite.
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Barcelona: Days 1-3

Posted by – July 17, 2011

Our first stop on our honeymoon adventure was Barcelona. Though Brittany had been here only 2 years ago, this was all a new experience for me. We jumped right into things, getting directly on the Metro from the airport. I always find those first moments of travel in foreign countries, from the airport to the first hotel, to be the most surreal of any trip. The jet lag and the sudden immersion into something totally new and different combine and lead to a state of heightened awareness, not unlike that of a good ski mountaineering trip. It is probably the main reasons I love to travel, it’s just another way to get out of the comfort zone.

Despite being quite tired, we had a lot of daylight left, so we started off by walking the streets of Barcelona. While I don’t consider myself to be a city person, I do enjoy their feverish pace and mass of humanity from time to time. Brittany has done quite a bit of traveling in Europe, and Barcelona ranks as her second-favorite city, right behind Paris and it was easy to find reasons why. The narrow crowded streets, some of them dating back to Roman times…
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The details…
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Rafting Down Rivers and Jumping Out Of Planes: A Bachelor Party TR

Posted by – May 23, 2011

Ahh, yes, the Bachelor party. Often involving a trip to Vegas or the local “Gentleman’s Club”, this was one pre-wedding ritual I was definitely looking forward to. Since I have no interest in the things that go on in Vegas, I just wanted to get the guys together to do something fun. Skiing was obviously my first choice, but I wasn’t sure if everyone else would be that stoked on it. So I started brainstorming and skydiving instantly came to mind. While I don’t actually have a “bucket list”, jumping out of a perfectly good plane is something I knew I wanted to do someday. Check that one off the list.

Some research led me to Canon City of all places- cheaper than other skydiving hotspots like Moab, and with a quality river run in the Royal Gorge as well. Day one was the Royal Gorge. It isn’t easy to get lots of photos on a raft trip, but since we had some kayakers in our group, we at least got a couple. Thanks Chris! The guy in the pink tutu up front? Yeah that would be me.

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I’ve done a bit of rafting in my day (Yampa/Green, Brown’s canyon, Taylor, and the Gunny gorge) and I’d put the Royal Gorge near the top. I’d do the multi-day Yampa over the Royal Gorge, but I liked the Royal Gorge a lot more than say, Brown’s canyon. In any case, we headed back to our camp at Shelf Road, which is an awesome spot to camp. We had hopes of getting a little climbing in, but never quite made it happen. Shelf Road:
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Then it was time for the main event. 10 of us jumped. Pete and Tom heading out on plane # 1 (They take 2 at a time):
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Pete comes in for his landing:
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Tom. Most everyone came out looking like this. Skydiving is fun. DO IT!
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Danny’s take on the skydiver’s hair and goggle look:
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Then it was my turn. I strapped in to the instructor, got in the plane, and we were off. The word was clearly out that I was the bachelor, so I got to hear a lot of this: {my guy to the other instructor} “Hey, do you know what this thing does?” {to me} “Hope you aren’t superstitious, this is only my 13th jump.”. As we continued our climb into the sky, he even busted out the fake “shaking hands” trick. I wasn’t buying it, but I’d also be lying if I said I wasn’t starting to get clammy hands as we got closer to the jump elevation. I tried to keep my mind occupied by checking out the great views of the Royal Gorge, Pike’s Peak, and the Sangres.

Then it was “go time”. The straps were tightened, and the relative quiet of the inside of the plane is suddenly pierced by the deafening roar of air rushing by at 80 miles an hour as the door is opened. There’s barely any time to think as the instructor quickly gets his foot out on the step. Moments later, I have both of my feet outside the plane as well. I get a tap on the shoulder, I grab the shoulder straps, and then WOAAAA!, I’m doing a front flip 8,000′ above the ground. Hey look, there’s the bottom of the plane. they should wash it, it’s dirty. There’s the ground. Another tap on the shoulder and I take my hands off the harness. We’re flying now, banking a little from right to left. Another tap and I grab the harness again and the chute gets thrown- slowing us down a little at first and then BAM!, the main chute inflates. This is me:
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Then the instructor starts spinning us around. This is probably the part when some people puke, but I’m loving every minute of it. Ben is above me in this shot:
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The landing was surprisingly gentle, and definitely over too quick. Since the instructor is doing all the work, I kind of described this experience as being a lot like an amusement park ride- just by far the best one I’ve been on.

Then it was back to camp for most of us, with nothing to do but a little auto body work. I mean, what good bachelor party doesn’t involve a good crash or two? (For the record, somebody else crashed into Dan’s car a few miles from camp).
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In short, GOOD TIMES!
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Final Pemberton Day: Dope Creek Spines 3.7.11

Posted by – March 30, 2011

March 7th was looking like the final bluebird day before at least a week of storms were forecast to pound the Coast mountains of British Columbia. So, it was with both a tinge of sadness and anticipation that I decided I would starting heading back to Colorado as soon as the clouds came back. Though neither Jon nor Susan could ski with me, they set me up with their friends Lisa, Chris, and Lon so we had a good group and we made our way back to Dope Creek, since there was already a track and plenty of room for more turns on the face.

The only change that had occurred in the previous two days was a bunch of ski tracks on the 20 degree “drag race hill”- apparently left by heli skiers. I can’t imagine getting dropped off a heli to ski flat terrain with snowmobile tracks on it while being surrounded by steep spines and faces everywhere. Maybe some day I’ll have top secret information and I’ll be tortured in this manner- I’ll give up my secrets pretty quickly to get on the good stuff.

The only regret of my trip? That the stars never quite aligned in a way for me to get on the big lines like this one:
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Next time. I wasn’t exactly crying about the lines we were about to ski. I don’t think my photos (and certainly not my POV) do it much justice, but it qualifies as “steep n deep”. Lisa:
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Lon:
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Chris, straight killing it off the top:
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We got 3 runs on this spine wall before we decided to switch it up and ski a nearby steep face. I only got a couple of runs in on the helmet cam, but that’s probably enough anyway. I used “Back in Black” by AC/DC because to this day every time I hear that song, I think of Jack Hannan and a competition run he had at Kirkwood 10 years ago. He was way back in about 20th place and had the best comp run I’ve ever seen to move all the way into 2nd place. This video also features “Jackass Pass”, a crazy snowmobile line between a wind drift and the mountain which somehow goes cleanly:

Dope Creek Spines 3-7-11 from 14erskiers on Vimeo.

The last line we skied in this zone was one I had looked at a lot on a poster made for Jack after the avalanche last year. We got to the top and clicked in, and at that moment a bald eagle flew by, maybe twenty feet away. Lisa was the first to yell out “Yeah Jack!” as we watched him fly across the valley. I came to Pemberton to ski, but I also came to feel some connection to Jack, and this moment was one of many that qualified. It’s hard to believe it’s been almost a year since he passed away. I know the eagle is hard to see, but he’s on the left in front of the cliffs.
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I guess that’s about it. The skiing in Crested Butte has been pretty amazing for the past 3 weeks, so I haven’t felt like I was missing out on too much since getting back. Tomorrow, March 31st, will be the one-year anniversary of Jack’s accident on Mount Currie, so I hope everyone shreds a line or tips a glass in his honor. “Jack’s got My Back”

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

Pemberton Icecap 3.6.11

Posted by – March 25, 2011

After a sweet day skiing the Dope Creek spines, I was jonesing for more, but unfortunately Jon had Daddy duty and all his other friends were already “Evens”. (Odd numbers don’t work well for snowmobile laps). I was on my own, it was a beautiful day, and I needed to do something. So, I decided to check out the Pemberton Icecap, a large glaciated area that had long captured my imagination.

Since it was a weekend and the weather was perfect, I figured I could safely go out there, so long as I stayed close to the beaten path. The main access point is Rutherford Creek, where you will quickly be asked for $$ just as soon as you pull into the parking lot. $20. At least they groom the access road.
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Once you get in the alpine, it’s pretty much a “kid in a candystore” scenario for snowmobiles. You want to carve turns for miles at a time without crossing another track? This is the place. Again, being solo I didn’t get too crazy, but it sure was fun. This is the place to learn how to ride. This was the scene at the “gas drop” pass. Miles behind me, miles in front of me, and a whole valley that looks just the same ahead of me.
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These photos are mostly the same, but here they are anyway.
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Tourist trap or not, I would still recommend a trip to the Pemberton Icecap if you’ve got a sled. Actually, even a tour looked fun up there. The weather report looked like I only had one more day of sunshine before a series of storms were set to roll in. I decided it was about time to head back home, but only after one more day. My trip to Pemberton was about to end on a high note- more on that later.

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

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Valid: 03/05 to 03/31

Dope Creek Spines (Part 1) 3.5.11 Pemberton, BC

Posted by – March 24, 2011

After about a week of down days characterized by wind, poor visibility, and cold temps, winter returned to the Coast Mountains and a small window of good light that Jon thought we could jump through. I knew before I left Colorado that I would probably have some days that challenged my snowmobiling skills. This ended up being the day. It wasn’t all that difficult, really, but the combination of my lack of confidence on the sled and not knowing where I was going really got my heart rate going. On one particularly intimidating looking climb, one that even had a sidehill after it, Jon said something like “That was SO worth making you do, just to watch you soil your shorts.” Thanks man. No seriously, thanks Jon- there’s nothing like the feeling of pulling something off that you didn’t think you could do.

“Follow me.”
“Uh, OK.”
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Then we got a view of the spiny goodness that was available to us, still partially hidden in clouds, but definitely there.
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The clouds kept teasing us with windows of good visibility, followed shortly thereafter by socking in. We decided a quick tree run was in order to see which way the weather was turning. This was yet another treerun that rivaled anything I usually ski in the trees of Colorado, but seemed pretty commonplace up here. This is a really short video of that run- when I came up on the gully, I knew I should just ski it as fast as I could- so much fun!

Dope Creek Trees from 14erskiers on Vimeo.

Jon had a gully of his own:
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The clouds were still hanging there, but we decided to give it a shot anyway. One thing I can say for sure is that steep spines get steeper when they’re in the middle of a cloud. My video from this run is kind of humorous, since you can’t even tell what’s going on, but I won’t bore you with that. The photos came out pretty decent with the help of Photoshop. Jon (notice how his hand is on the snow, yes it really is steep):
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Jon, run #2. That’s what I like to see:
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That’s about all I’ve got from this day, but stay tuned for Part 2. Meanwhile, on another note, the snowmobilers that followed our tracks had been keeping us entertained all day. Snowmobilers have a bad rap in avie circles, a reputation which is largely undeserved around Crested Butte, where they generally seem pretty prepared and knowledgeable. But this day in Dope Creek?

These guys were great. “Backpacks?”
“Nah, who needs em.”

“A good spot to eat lunch?”
“Right under that steep face those skiers are eying- let’s just chill there for a half hour.”

“Hey, let’s highmark at the same time!”
“Good idea!”

“Let’s skip this nice North facing stuff and see if the snow bonded to South facing suncrusts!”
“Yay!”
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Anyway, we made our way down the Gauntlet, another terrifying but ultimately satisfying snowmobile mission. Amazing light made for a fitting end to a beautiful day:
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Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

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