Category: Thirteeners

Taylor Peak 13,435′ 4.9.10

Posted by – April 12, 2010

Jeremy Wegner and I headed out on Friday with no real plans other than to check out the conditions near Aspen. It’s a long snowmobile ride, but at this time of year it’s nice to check out a new zone when the sledding is so easy. With any luck, Luke Shaffner and his buddy Nate visiting from Montana would join us as well. We decided to kill some time waiting for them with a quick snowmobile lap. North facing conditions remain excellent (Jeremy):
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Then we started heading across the valley just in time to catch Luke dropping in on another sled accessed line:
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As it turned out, Luke had gotten a work call right before he left the trailhead and had to head home, but Nate was still able to join us. Jeremy and I had decided we wanted to ski Taylor, so that’s where the three of us headed next. I’d been wanting to ski Taylor ever since Pete and I skied Star Peak a couple of years ago, so I was excited to check it out. Taylor:
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Another day:
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East face of Castle, looking good:
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East face of Cathedral, really want to ski this one:
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Lots of fun lines on Conundrum, and I’m not even talking about conundrum couloir:
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Jeremy closing in on the summit:
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The face looked good, minus the dust, of course:
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Jeremy:
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All in all, a great day, filled with new lines and a list of lines we’d like to go back to. Until next time…

A West Side Story. Mount Owen 13,058′ 3.17.10

Posted by – March 19, 2010

Every year, Pete tries to ski something big on his birthday. Last year, it was White and Whiterock. This year, a few ideas got thrown around, but I tossed out the West Face of Mt. Owen, which I had been looking at most of the day before on “Mountain X”. Jasper agreed, and the three of us headed into unknown territory, a rarity for us and our combined 45 years of backcountry experience in the Crested Butte area. What we found was some of the best couloir skiing anywhere around.

After parking the snowmobiles, we ascended the standard 1,500′ route from Green Lake, but not without a little excitement. Pete described seeing a small mouse-sized hole, wondered if 20′ from the edge of the cornice was enough, and then watched the mouse hole turn into a man sized hole.
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TR: Junetober Continues…

Posted by – June 15, 2009

Normally one of the hottest times of the year, after the snows of spring but before the monsoons of July and August, June this year has been anything but hot. A seemingly endless parade of cool, wet storms have kept the temps quite nice and snow has been a regular occurrence, sometimes even down in Crested Butte at 8885′. The dusty snow has been covered up by a much more appealing white in many locations, and I would even go so far as saying that the skiing this June is better than last years’. Even more surprising, people are still getting summit descents off of peaks that were nearly bone-dry in March, but are caked now as we inch closer to summer.

Forrest contacted me and asked me if I was still interested in skiing and the answer to that was of course “Yes”. Tom was still game as was Shannon, a friend of Forrest’s, so we had a foursome. We met up in the Sawatch range at the end of a high road near treeline- terrific access for this time of year. (It isn’t hard to figure out where we were, but I’ll at least let the reader figure it out, since this was Forrest’s idea) Our destination was a thirteener at the head of the valley, although several other steep couloirs were tempting.
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Our peak:
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The skis stayed on our backs the whole time, as it was just as easy to boot up the grassy slopes as it would have been to skin the nearby snow patches. (Photo Tom)

Near the top the ridge got a little interesting with a couple of moves here and there. Tom negotiates the fun little finish…
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Though it was not yet 11am, clouds were already building and it was time to go. Tom off the top:
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Frank (photo Tom):

Forrest:
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Shannon (photo Tom):

Tom:
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Frank (photo Tom):

The skiing was quite good- almost powdery in places, great corn in others. By the time we reached the trucks it was flurrying once again- more fresh tracks for someone to get!

One last thing- I often post up Tom’s photos, and I think he has a great eye. To check out all his photos, go here.

Ice Mountain: Refrigerator Couloir 5.31.09

Posted by – June 1, 2009

At the trailhead for Garnet Canyon after our ski descent of the Middle Teton, I told Jordan and Andy that I was probably done skiing for the year unless I took a trip up to Rainier or somewhere else other than Colorado, since the dust layer had pretty much killed my ski enthusiasm. But when I got back, the mountains actually looked white again, the result of some small snowstorms that came through over the Memorial day weekend. It looked like it could actually be decent skiing, and a few trip reports on the internet made it look pretty good, too. With lows forecast in the upper 20′s Saturday night and hopefully a window of good weather Sunday morning, I pulled Ice Mountain out of my memory banks as a good objective.

Sitting just 49′ shy of the magical 14,000′ mark, Ice mountain is the highest peak in the center of the “Three Apostles”, a rugged group of peaks in the middle of the otherwise mostly boring Sawatch Range. (This photo and other small photos Tom Runcie)

Tom and I left Crested Butte at 4am for the drive over Cottonwood Pass and reached the trailhead a little later than we wanted to, but were still hiking by 7:15am. It had been a while since I had seen this much frost, so we knew we had gotten the freeze we were hoping for. A surprising number of tracks made their way through the snow patches and downed timber towards the base of the Apostles, which made our morning much easier. This icy log was the crux of the approach:

We saw a group high in the basin about to enter the couloir, and followed tracks right through the tiny couloir that makes its’ way through the lower cliff band in the lower right of this photo.
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Some people have claimed that this couloir reaches 65degrees near the top (I’d say maybe 50, with most of it at 45), and others have called this couloir one of the most dangerous routes in CO due to rockfall. The snow apron at the bottom of the couloir had virtually no rocks on it, and we only saw one rock falling down during our climb, so perhaps the warnings are a bit exaggerated. Tom on the fun climb:
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We topped out the couloir and then made the short and easy scramble to the summit. Clouds had been gathering and there was some rain over Taylor Park:
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There was enough snow to ski right off the summit through a few rocks and over to the top of the couloir. The refrigerator couloir, high and North facing, was in great shape for the last day of May. New snow had covered the dusty snow, and it hadn’t slid so the surface was nice and smooth. Our timing, around 11:30, was perfect and this route yielded some of the best corn of the year.
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Tom:
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Frank:

West Apostle did its’ best to mimic a Teton peak, making me imagine someone linking all the little snow patches on this face via a series of rappels, as they like to do in the Tetons.
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The tiny exit couloir was fun and interesting as well, with some slimy little moves to negotiate a couple of sections that were too narrow for skis.
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All that was left now was to race the ever-building clouds back to the trailhead, while still pausing to look back at the peaks:
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The rain started to come down hard about 5 minutes after we reached the truck. Looks like our timing was perfect all day long. On our way back over Cottonwood, we drove through 3-4″ of new snow, so Ice and the other high peaks in this area might be skiing very well for the next few days at least. It looks like the season isn’t quite done afterall, dust or no dust.

Precarious Peak 5.12.09

Posted by – May 13, 2009

After Saturday’s ski of UN 13,260′, I knew I wanted to get back and ski Precarious as soon as possible. Josh was game to give it a go today and we made plans to meet early in the morning. Unfortunately, when I woke up at 5am, the temperature at my condo was distressingly high- in the upper 40′s at about 9500′. Non-freezing temps mean a lot of things to springtime ski mountaineers, one of which being impossible post-holing and the other being an increased chance of wet slides. I gave Josh a call right away thinking I would be crawling back into bed, but Josh said he was just about to leave Gunnison anyway and we might as well go for a walk. By the time he picked me up, a light drizzle was falling and I had no idea why I wasn’t in my cozy bed.

In just three short days, the snow had melted up the road another half mile or so, so we parked at the trailhead and started walking around on patches of snow to see how soft they were. Surprisingly, they were supportive and we decided to continue on our way and hope for the best. At least the scenery was nice, right?
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Farther up another little snow squall came through and it was yet another opportunity to turn around.
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But then the sun came out and it was just too pretty to turn around so we kept going.
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We finally started to turn the corner in the valley and get our view of Precarious. It lives up to its’ name from this angle:
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We continued up the valley and saw something very strange. The stream was running on top of the snow. This often happens on glaciers, but I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen it on glacierless Colorado snow.
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The peak that Rob and I skied on Saturday looked just as good on the North side as it did on the South side we had skied. Josh had climbed the peak in summer and mentioned the summit register gave it the unofficial name of “Golden Peak”. Josh and I talked about skiing it instead of Precarious because it was a much better aspect given the time of day and the light overnight freeze, but it was hard for me to motivate to climb the same peak in three days.
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We decided to keep going towards Precarious, especially since the couloir we wanted to climb was still shaded and had huge chunks of debris in it, making it unlikely to wet slide again anytime soon. This is our ascent route (blue= a hidden downclimb)
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Frank:
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Josh:
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Josh on the downclimb:
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Then to the top (Frank)
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Josh:
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Josh has climbed Precarious in the summer before, and he mentioned that it was easier this time on snow. Things really only got tricky in the downclimb area, but once we got back on snow in the upper couloir, it was mostly just fun and straightforward steep snow climbing. Precarious lies on top of the dividing line between Aspen and Crested Butte, meaning that to our North was East Maroon Creek draining towards Aspen and to the South was the East River valley leading to Crested Butte and Gunnison. Pyramid massif and the East Maroon creek drainage:
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Views of the Bells never get old:
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We were very late to ski the face we wanted to ski, but a strong wind had dried out the snowpack a little and kept things from getting out of control. Still, we stayed close to a small rocky ridge as long as we could and skied conservatively. Slight differences in aspect switched the snow from icy to perfect to a deep sloppy mess. Josh, stoked to be skiing Precarious:
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Frank:
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Our descent route:
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The worst part about exploring new places is that there is always something good around the corner that you have to go back for. Unlike skiing the fourteeners, skiing intriguing lines is a game that can never be won. For instance:
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While we were able to pull of a climb and ski descent of Precarious, I’m not sure that we should have. We definitely got away with one when the temps were that warm both overnight and when we skied. It takes some experience to know that mistakes were made even when you’re successful. I let Josh talk me out of bailing when I woke up, but after that, my ambitions to ski Precarious were equally up to the task of pushing us farther than we should have. Things never got that scary, but we still knew better.

Where the Peaks Have No Names 5.9.09

Posted by – May 10, 2009

Of the many peaks I hoped to find myself on this season, Precarious Peak ranked right near the top. Deep in the heart of the Elks and often shielded from view in the midst of other high peaks, Precarious had remained a mystery to me in both summer and winter. In January, Brittany took this photo of Precarious from Gothic, and I often caught other glimpses of it, or so I thought.

So often this season I’ve found myself re-tracing familiar steps on familiar peaks, or at best teaming up with someone like Pete who may have already skied whatever day’s objective we were working on. Heading off towards Precarious with Rob yesterday into the relative unknown was something I’ve truly been missing lately. As much as I love not needing a map just about anywhere I ski or bike locally, the lack of adventure is often noticeable.

After driving the recently plowed and re-opened Gothic road to the trailhead, we made our way upvalley and caught our first glimpse of the day’s objective.

As we went higher, we were greeted by a high cirque of peaks and a number of fun looking lines that I’ll have to get back to. We were on the right track:

We finished off the skin and transfered to crampons and iceaxes. As is so often the case, the couloir was less steep than it had appeared from afar, not to mention shorter. Still, the last 25′ on the opposite side of the peak was incredibly steep. This photo of Rob doesn’t do it any justice at all.

Meanwhile, looking north I had to wonder if we were on Precarious or not. It turns out that Precarious was indeed across the valley and we had no idea what peak we were on, although it was the peak we had been shooting for. The real Precarious:

The bells:

In the distance L-R are Siberia, Snowmass, Capitol and Daly. Bellview Mountain in front.

I do not know the name of this peak. I do know that I like it. A lot.

We dropped off the north side, then East to get to our S facing couloir. Rob:

Looking down the couloir:

Parts of the couloir had slid, but it was still super high on aesthetics and we were still stoked. Rob:

Meanwhile, since the temps were staying cool we decided that instead of skiing back the same way we came we should continue on towards another summit. From Mount Crested Butte, these twin summits are always visible:

It didn’t look like it would take too much effort to climb up the backside and drop right down the face and into Copper Creek. Being such visible peaks from our homes, Rob and I were psyched at the way things were working out this day. After about 1,000′ of skinning we dropped off the first summit and then cruised up the other, just because. Rob:

A project to be solved another season:

One last view of the peak we skied, which I have now identified as Unnamed 13,260′, or the 433rd highest peak in CO :)

There were some high clouds, but the skiing was still near perfect corn, despite the best attempts of the stupid dust layer to screw it all up.

This was one rotten and nasty looking face:

Frank:

The unnamed twin peaks we had just skied top out at 13,043′, while the valley floor is just under 10k. Snow or no snow, Rob made sure he could claim a 3,000′ descent ;)

At this point, our 11 hour day consisted of just a couple of things, one of which was checking out some pretty sizeable avalanche debris:

…And the other being a crossing of Copper creek:

All in all, this was one of the most satisfying days of the year for me. Hopefully I can get back into the zone this week before the dust marches up to the tops of the peaks.

Mt. Owen 3.14.09

Posted by – April 23, 2009

Mt. Owen 13,058′
3.14.09
Eric, Tom, Austin, Rob, Frank

I had been holding off on this TR in the hopes that my friend Rob would be able to get his videos up on youtube, but he had some trouble getting it from his computer to the internet. Photos will have to suffice for what was one of the best days of the year. Mid March was dry and warm in Colorado, which led to some great stable skiing in the backcountry and hard conditions at the ski area. The only worry at that time was that cornices were getting heavy and breaking off, as this one was trying to do on our climb of Owen:
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The climb of Owen is steep, but more fun than scary overall. Rob:
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Tom and Eric decided to drop in off of a small knob above the Jenga chute below the summit. These lines are some of Owen’s finest. Tom surveying the scene:
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Rob, Austin, and I continued to the top and missed Tom and Eric’s runs. Tom took this shot of Eric that also shows Tom’s tracks down the face.

I got to the top first and took this shot of Austin and Rob making their way from the false sumit to the real one:
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I guided Rob to the one spot on the ridge not guarded by a cornice, where he dropped in and had one of the best runs of the year:
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He was cranking turns down in the basin about .6298 seconds later:
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I went next and handed my camera to Austin so he could get a couple of photos of me on a super fun spine.
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Tom got a photo from below as well. Rob’s tracks to the left. Look right of the pinnacle for me.

Austin was next and killed a line just looker’s right of mine on his snowboard. Tom’s photos:

The skiing was so good that Tom, Rob and myself all decided to do a 2nd lap. It’s only a little thirteener, right?

The light had left the face on our second lap, so the photos aren’t quite as good, but here is Rob checking out round 2:
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…And skiing it in the shade:
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Even now, over a month later, those turns on Owen represent one of the highpoints of this ski season. Hopefully there’s a couple more out there.

White and Whiterock 3.19.09

Posted by – March 21, 2009

White Mountain 13,401′
Whiterock Mountain 13,540′

17 miles
7,000′ of vert

Frank, Pete, Jasper, anonymous front range skier who was feeling too “sick” to work ;)

Pete has been working hard lately during spring break, but as luck would have it his one day off this week was on his birthday. He decided he wanted to do a big tour that would collect 2 thirteeners and 2 great ski descents in a long, long day. We began our day at about 6:45 from the Snodgrass/Gothic trailhead and would not return for another 11 hours.

The previous few days I have been skiing Axtel a lot, and hope to get a TR up from there just as soon as dRob gets the time to get his photos and videos up. Despite the lack of recent snowfall, Axtel has been holding super high quality powder.

Today we were entering mountain goat terrain, and saw a large herd of them flying along the ridges. Here are their tracks, with the West face of Teocalli behind:

Higher up, we found their outhouse. I had no idea that goats like to poop in the same place all the time. Weird.

Pete and Jasper checking out Teocalli again. No, they didn’t pose like this on purpose, but I still had to take the photo :) :

OUr route up was long and gradual, following Perry Creek right under Western State Peak which Brittany and I skied back in January. Our trailhead is way down by the ski area.

The views of the Elks from both of these peaks were some of the best I’ve ever seen. Thunder Pyramid and Pyramid:

Capitol, the Bells, and Pyramid:

We also had a good look at our next objective, Whiterock mountain. We would ski the left skyline off of this peak:

The route that we were here to ski on White is approximately this one (taken from WS peak)

Later in the day, I took another shot of our route, which basically followed the skyline.

The birthday boy got first tracks on near-perfect corn on this big East face:

Two of Jasper:

Finding the exit was obviously key, and the one we found required a little bit of air. I went ahead and guinea-pigged it, which I guess means I already feel comfortable on my second day of dynafiddling. Pete had the best form off of this air, so he gets the photo. The “sick” maggot was standing right there, but I erased him in PS. Weird to just deny someone’s existence like that…

Pete again:

We started climbing back towards Whiterock and got good views of the ridge connecting these two summits. There are a number of pinnacles and cliffs comprised of very rotten rock, so I doubt if it has ever been traversed on the ridge crest.
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Just under the summit of Whiterock, things got a bit interesting. Jasper checked things out:

…and decided we should make a descending traverse around the rotten pinnacles:

…and then back up again through damp sugar snow that hasn’t quite reached full springtime maturity.

We were again confronted with amazing views. Brittany and I skied this face last year in June, since the couloir on the right (El Nacho) had slid out:

The Maroon Bells were unbelievably impressive from our vantage point:

As was Pyramid:

The North facing shots were super tempting, but they would have added many miles to our tour and would have offered up about half as much fall line skiing versus the W side.

West side it was (Jasper):

Pete:

We even found powder as the route turned slightly more N facing near the bottom of this 3,000′ run:

From Copper creek we could see a large portion of the run:

From here it was just a long slog through the town of Gothic back to our cars:

Made me wish that I had a March birthday, too. Great day.

Mount Bellview 13,520′ 11.9.08

Posted by – November 11, 2008

Brittany and I decided to head up Schofield pass Sunday morning for a little skiing and exploring. We knew we could ski Halloween bowl again, but were open to some other choices as well. Not far after I parked, we saw this stuck Tacoma which confirmed that I parked mine in a good place:
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At the top of the pass, we saw a skintrack heading up the popular 401 bike trail, and decided to follow that to the summit of Mt. Bellview. While we knew this would lead to a South facing slope which wouldn’t yield good skiing, we were in a mood to explore and headed up 401:
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Brittany nears the summit with Baldy in the background.
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Frank on the summit with Snowmass in the background
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Brittany on the summit with Crested butte in the background:
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The day before, a small storm deposited lots of rime ice on the vegetation not yet covered with snow:
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Precarious Peak to the NW:
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Maroon Bells, Bellview Mountain, and Pyramid:
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The mountains to the west (westernmost peaks of the Elks). I think they include Daly (not the one next to Capitol), Meadow Mountain, and Mt Richey. Anyone know for sure?
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The top of the run was pretty smooth wind affected snow, and actually skied quite nicely. Brittany:
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Frank:
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Lower down, the snow got thinner and more sun affected. while we still hit very few rocks, we were forced to make “gorilla turns” and get well away from the sun crust while turning:
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In the end, we had fun despite the pretty poor snow conditions. We’ve gotten a little snow since then, but we sure could use a couple of feet to really get this season going again.

Queen Basin/ Whiterock

Posted by – June 1, 2008

pologies in advance for the lack of action shots…

I wasn’t in the mood to drive anywhere or put too much effort into anything given the weather forecast for temps which weren’t supposed to reach freezing. Brittany and I drove out the recently opened Gothic road to see what things looked like. In the evening light, one of my favorite routes anywhere, which we call “White Widow” looked melted out. As it turns out, it was still in except for a little bit at the top. Plan B was to ski “El Nacho”, something I skied in ’97 or ’98, but not since. My friends Luke and Jeremy decided to join us as well.

Brittany hiking, with Gothic mountain behind:

A little higher up, with Crested Butte behind:

Once we got a little higher, we determined that the Elks were indeed still holding snow in June:

I hadn’t been up high in this area for a while, so it’s always fun to get a different view. CB and Whetstone:

A HUGE slide occurred this winter (2-9-08) in the bowl below us. Here’s a couple of shots from the Crested Butte Avalanche center:

We could still see the evidence:

L-R, the many summits of Avery, Precarious, and Pyramid.

Different view of Maroon (S) (seen through the saddle):

Whiterock looks fun off the summit:

The old East Maroon wagon trail and pass are pretty obvious:

I was a little bummed that White Widow was mostly in, since it’s one of the best couloirs I’ve skied, but I guess we’ll hit it another day:

Our intended route, “El Nacho” looked pretty poor, so we changed plans a bit. Queen basin has a bunch of couloirs, called the ten little indians, so Jeremy picked one:

Brittany and I choose a fun hanging face instead:

Brittany:

We came out under El Nacho. Get it? Notch –> Notch-o –> El Nacho? Not sure who named it.

I was a little worried about crossing Copper creek, but it wasn’t too bad. Luke kept his helmet on, Safety First!! :D

The last time I skied this area, the skiing through the forest was a rotten mess. Sunday, even walking back through the patchy stuff after noon, the snow was still amazingly solid, even though it was a light freeze. I was only sinking in an inch or two, and the air temp felt like it was at least 60 by then. It’s amazing how a good snowpack stays good, and a bad one stays bad.