Most of the airbag research thus far has been conducted in Europe, where big open alpine faces provide a perfect place for airbag deployment. Here in North America, where backcountry skiing often takes place in treed areas, the results of airbag use will surely be different than in Europe. Still, the statistics from Europe are quite convincing. Between 1990 and 2007, of 151 skiers wearing an airbag (specifically ABS), only 3 people were completely buried without part of the airbag still showing. There were only 2 fatalities. Those numbers would be far worse without the airbags. Check this LINK.

Even if you ARE buried with an airbag pack, two things are likely to help your survival. First, some part of your airbag is probably above the surface, even if you aren’t, so your partners won’t even need to search for you with their beacons- they will simply ski straight to you, saving you a couple minutes or more of search time. Second, you probably aren’t buried as deeply as you would have been without the airbag, greatly reducing your burial time. Even an experienced group may have trouble finding and digging out a deeply buried victim in less than 15 minutes, given how long it takes to dig through concrete-like avalanche debris.

Trauma will remain a big concern for avalanche victims, and it is unclear if airbags will help with that aspect at all. Still, one has to think that a big poofy airbag, situated by your head and neck, will at least help a little. Also, since it tends to keep victims above the moving debris rather than sucked down in it, trauma will likely be minimized.

However, even with an airbag pack, the best thing to do remains not to get in an avalanche. Anyone who has had a uncomfortably close look at a big avalanche knows that serious injuries are a real threat with or without airbags. For those of us who ski in the backcountry on a regular basis, the odds say that you’ll eventually make a mistake and be involved in an avalanche. So, the choices are not to ski, only ski on slopes less than 25 degrees, or try to make good decisions and try to stack the odds in your favor.

Therefore, Brittany and I will both be skiing with BCA Float 36 backpacks this season. At $785 MSRP, they’re not cheap (although they are cheaper than most airbag packs, many of which are over $1,000). And at a reported 7.7 pounds, they’re certainly not light either (a typical non-airbag pack of the same size is probably around 2.5lbs). After a half dozen ski trips with our new packs so far, here’s our take on the Float 36.

Float 36 Review:

First off, it is heavy. You won’t pick it up without noticing that. Thankfully, however, the engineers at BCA have done a terrific job of designing the pack in a way that makes the weight less noticeable. After all, 20lbs in a cheap school backpack won’t carry as well as 20lbs in a nice ski pack. The “guts” of the pack are tight against the back, where the weight isn’t as noticeable once the pack is on.

The main compartment is huge and can be opened nearly completely, making it easier to dry out at home or stuff a big jacket in there. Meanwhile, there is a pocket for the shovel blade (My BCA Companion shovel is the biggest you’ll get in there), and side pockets for the handle and probe. Water bladders can go behind the shovel blade where my hand is:

Hose routing for water bladders is a bit of an issue, so Brittany was forced to make a small cut to allow the hose routing from the main compartment to the shoulder strap access point (I don’t use bladders, so a non-issue for me). One more inside pocket, which I’ve been using for snacks:

The main compartment can also be accessed by a small access panel in the back of the pack, making it user-friendly for things I grab often, like water.

Fleece lined goggle pocket on top of the pack:

The outside of the pack:

As you can see, it’s quite clean and has 2 ice axe loops as well as a diagonal/vertical ski carry system. We haven’t carried our skis much at this point, and probably won’t- once the Colorado snowpack allows safe bootpacking, we will be using our old non-airbag pack more often than not. Plus, these days I’m a fan of pulling my skis whenever I can and all together avoiding the extra weight of skis on my bag. Here’s a couple of shots of the ski carry system (a loop in the center of the pack is what differentiates the diagonal or vertical setup):

The Float 36, like most airbag packs, isn’t a top loader, which can make packing an item like a rope a bit more tricky. But experimenting with my rope led me to believe it won’t be too bad to lash items to the outside of the pack using the horizontal straps, as so:

Underneath the top part of the pack is a really slick helmet sling which can be attached up or down, as shown here:

One complaint here: the little orange tabs are a little difficult to hook, especially with gloved hands. A tiny loop of accessory cord will make for a quick fix for that problem, minor as it is.

Airbag packs require a leg loop to insure they don’t come off when subjected to the intense forces of an avalanche. In this case, I have stuffed the leg loop under the waist pocket, which is convenient for travel. The waist pockets (one on both sides) are huge and awesome- plenty of room for a large camera, or snacks, or a 2-way radio.

In addition to the leg loop, airbag packs need a strong, climbing-harness style buckle, since a regular fastex buckle would simply break. It takes a little fiddling with gloved hands, but it’s easy once you get used to it.

The trigger on the right shoulder strap.

It is easily stowed back within the zipper to prevent accidental deployment in the car, helicopter, or snowcat. Some heli companies may also make you disconnect the canister before boarding the ‘bird. Traveling on an airline with this pack goes like this: In North America, you will need to discharge the canister (good practice for pulling the trigger), and disassemble the canister so the TSA agents can look inside. Once at your destination, you’ll need to refill it at a refill center, or refill it yourself if you have the know-how and correct air and pressure, or have BCA send you a canister to your destination. In Europe and Asia, you can keep your canister full when you fly. Also important to note: you can fly on non-commercial planes (i.e. bushplanes) with a full canister (something I hope to do this winter).

If you get caught in an avalanche, the number one thing that could increase your odds is an airbag- more than a beacon, more than body armor and a helmet, and certainly more than an avalung. If you regularly ski in the backcountry, it’s something you should strongly consider, despite the weight and the price. We’ve been very impressed with BCA’s Float 36 so far- yes it could be lighter, but that’s the only complaint. If it were lighter because it used lots of carbon and titanium and unobtainium, and retailed for $3,000, I wouldn’t consider it an improvement. If it were lighter because it was bare-bones and didn’t have any of the useful features that I actually use, I wouldn’t consider it an improvement. Nor would it be an improvement if it were made with uber-light fabric that shreds when in the general vicinity of a tree. BCA did a great job with this pack.

Brittany’s Take:
The BCA Float 36 is a great airbag pack. I agree with all of the positives Frank mentioned above- including the easy access and large size of the main compartment. With the Float, I can fit all of my necessary backcountry gear with ease and room to spare. My two favorite features of the bag are: 1) the oversized hip-pockets – a camera goes in one, and lots of snacks in the other, and 2) the pull-out helmet-sling. Though I agree with Frank’s comment that the hooks on the sling are a bit difficult to push into the tiny orange tabs with bulky gloves in the way, the problem is easily remedied by adding additional pieces of cord. While getting a bladder/hydration system in there required cutting a small hole, the hole is not detrimental to the pack and snow still will not enter that hole. The pack is definitely compatible with a hydration system with a convenient zip-sleeve on the left shoulder strap, opposite the airbag-pull on the right.

As for sizing- the Float 36 currently does not come in different sizes. Here is where my longer torso (paying for with short-legs!) becomes a nice convenience. The Float 36 fits my 5’3″ self absolutely perfectly. But, adjustments on it do allow the pack to fit a wide range of torsos!

While the additional weight of the pack is noticeable, I didn’t really feel it while actually carrying the pack on my back. The airbag system is placed well and doesn’t feel extra bulky while climbing or skiing.

Overall, I’m really pleased with the Float 36. It’s the best pack I’ve owned in quite some time! I would recommend the Float as a fantastic option for backcountry skiers looking for an airbag pack.

Check it out:

The problem, of course, with hike-a-bike is that it’s rather unpleasant with stiff bike shoes that often have slick plastic treads. My Lake shoes at least have a Vibram sole, but they are still stiff as can be, so hiking in them tends to be best suited for a ballerina, which I am not. The Pearl Izumi X-Alp Seek shoes, however, have quite a bit of flexibility in front of the cleat, as well as a nice grippy rubber sole. They seemed like the perfect answer to rides when we knew we would be hiking, but how did they perform…

The Pearl Izumi X-Alp Seek shoes:

The answer is that they performed every bit as well as could be expected. While hiking, they were just as comfortable as any other hiking shoe I have, despite the cleat on the sole. You can walk on a tile floor with these shoes without the clickity-clack of most bike shoes. Their hiking abilities didn’t surprise us. What did surprise us was how well they rode. Despite just being lace-ups, and obviously much less stiff than most bike shoes, they actually transfer power admirably well. they aren’t the shoe of choice for a NORBA race, perhaps, but for every day riding few will notice their shortcomings.

Durability? As you can see in the photos above, taken after at least 200 miles, the shoes are holding up nicely. Most MTB shoes fail in the toe area, but these haven’t shown any wear and tear there.

Our only complaint- the mesh uppers, while being very breathable, also soak through very easily- much more so compared to shoes with leather uppers.

In short, 14erskiers gives these shoes 2 thumbs up- way up!

Support 14erskiers by clicking on the link below:

Jon gave credit to Peter Ressmann for developing the technique while they were on Mount Saint Elias along with Axel Naglich, filming the movie of the same name. It makes a ton of sense to pull skis on a huge expedition-style ascent like Mount Saint Elias, when you’d already be carrying massive loads from camp to camp. I kept seeing Jon using the method over the past few years, so it looked like it must be a viable method even on a more standard day trip. Conditions in Canada this past winter prevented me from ever trying the technique- we were too busy stepping off the snowmobiles and shredding powder spines- so I was glad Jon joined us on Whiterock for another try.

It’s pretty simple to set up. Drill a hole in each ski- I used a 3/16″ bit. Some epoxy is probably a good idea as well. Grab a few feet of cord, tie a couple of stopper knots in one end, and thread the cord through the skis. Rotate the dynafits so the brakes are up, orleave the Fritchis in the high bar so their brakes don’t drag. Tie a figure 8 into your ice axe loop on your pack and start hiking. Close-up:

So, how did it work? I’m not 100% sold, but it’s something I’m definitely putting in my bag of tricks. On flatter ground, it works really well- you don’t even know the skis are there. Steeper terrain really works well, too- once the backpack and the skis are more or less parallel, the skis again seem to disappear. It’s on the moderate terrain of say 30-40 degrees that I’d just assume have the skis on my pack. There’s simply something in the angle that makes the skis pull strangely on moderate slopes. One thing I was worried about was how it would pull through mixed ground, or even on the suncups of summer. It’s pretty amazing, actually- the skis simply find their way and you don’t even have to worry about them. All in all, I would recommend the technique, it’s definitely worth a try. A long, steep face climb would be the ultimate proving ground.

A clip from St Elias. Check it out around :20seconds…

JULY 4TH SALE – GET 40% OFF + FREE 2-DAY SHIPPING @ BACKCOUNTRY.COM! – Expires 07/05/2011

One look and it’s obvious that the Slingshot is a technical piece of optical gear. These are not the frames I grab when I’m heading out on the red carpet. OK, I’ve never done that, but the point remains. Function trumps fashion out in the backcountry, though, and these glasses are built for function. The first thing you’ll notice when you pick them up is how light they are- not a big deal in my world, but still an added bonus. The lenses are as high tech as they come- they are photochromic, which means they offer exceptional clarity and change the tint based on how bright it is outside. They’re equally at home in the dark timber of deep winter when you barely need sunglasses at all, as they are in the bright sunshine of springtime peak descents. Zeal’s photochromic offerings have been getting better by leaps and bounds over the past few years- they change tint rapidly and seem to have a wider range as well.

My favorite trait about these sunglasses? They don’t seem to fog, ever. The lenses have quite a bit of venting, as do the frames, and when you combine that with a lens that sits fairly far away from your face, they just won’t fog. Considering their full coverage and lack of fogging, these sunglasses are going to transition nicely to mountain biking use if the snow ever melts and I get back into that again. My only complaint? They are a little loose on my face- I will need to use Croakies to keep them on while biking. Of course, someone with a bigger face wouldn’t have that problem at all.

Two thumbs up from 14erskiers! Support 14erskiers and purchase them here:

Buy some now and be ready for next winter:

And now I have another disappointment to add to Dynafits. The heel pieces have always required a tremendous amount of torque and crazy yoga positions to switch through the various heel lift heights. This is due at least in part to the brakes as well as the release setting that I have them set at: 12. Which isn’t to say that I’m the only one- I felt vindicated watching Dynafit’s biggest cheerleader reach down and manually change the position on a recent tour of Mount Sopris. In a few thousand miles of Fritchi usage, I have never once stooped over to change the heel position on a tour.

In any case, all that heelpiece wrestling takes a toll. My carbon poles, with their “soft tip”, are bent from using Dynafits- I only use my non-adjustable aluminum poles with Dynafits anymore. What you’re wrenching on, though, is plastic. Plastic eventually breaks:

This happened in the middle of a pretty big tour. Thankfully it wasn’t a big deal- I just needed to reach down to move the heelpiece. It’s also a part that the local Dynafit dealer had plenty of, so it didn’t take long to fix. Replacement is easy- make sure you dial the release settings all the way down first, otherwise parts may go flying everywhere. Then remove the 4 Torx screws, a small pin, and replace.

Considering how little I have used my Dynafits (only for springtime ski mountaineering), it was disappointing to already go through a breakage. Minor, yes, but still- it isn’t exactly confidence inspiring. Looking for some new gear for next season? (Or this season which won’t end?) Free Shipping on Any Order through June 1! Use Code: battleship. Coupon Code: battleship

Susan and I tried to find some good snow in a heavily trafficked area that we hoped was sheltered enough. The views were nice. It’s hard to see, but there were some really rowdy and exposed spines in the alpine above Susan.

We found a mixed bag of conditions on our ski descent. I’ll include this photo, since it speaks volumes. Susan loves to ski, and with an infant at home, skiing is no longer an everyday event like it once was. So despite the non-perfect terrain or conditions, she was still pretty darn stoked just to be out there, making some turns. I should probably try to remember that the next time I’m out on a mediocre day.

In any case, I found myself at Blackcomb a lot over the next few days, since skiing hardpack is better than not skiing at all. One fine day, the winds hit nearly 150km/hr and shut down most of the mountain. Regardless, one day I met up with my friend Gavin, who had shown me around Whitewater last year. He and his new bride Veronica asked me about the snowmobile skiing I had been doing and whether they should get into it or not. I’ve thought a lot about that lately, so here are my thoughts.

Here in Crested Butte, I consider it a no-brainer. $1,000 gets you something that can get you up a groomed road and a lot more options in areas that get a lot more snow. A little more money will get you an older-style mountain sled that can access most everything else. Most of the trailheads are pretty simple, so just about any trailer and vehicle will take care of things.

Up in Pemberton, things are bigger, harder, and ultimately, better. But the costs are way bigger. First off, the trailheads are tough to get to without a big truck and a sled bed, so that’s the first cost my friend Gavin needs to consider. A cheap sled won’t cut it, so I think at least a few grand per snowmobile is a place to start. We’re already off to a big investment here, but there’s more: the time investment learning how to ride. Sure, the really popular areas like Brandywine or the Pemberton Icecap might get enough tracks to simply follow, but what’s the fun in that? I’ve been riding snowmobiles for a while, but I still felt pretty helpless at times up there without a better rider (usually Jon) with me. So add in a lot of miles dedicated to snowmobiling, not skiing, to the investment. Meanwhile, the Whistler area has a lot of good skiing available from the lifts as well as on the Duffey road. No snowmobile is required for classics like Joffre and Fissile. So in the end, my advice to Gavin is to ski everything he can without a snowmobile first, and then consider getting one down the road. What do you guys think? good advice or bad?

Other PNW/ Pemberton Reports:

Steven’s Pass
No Sleep Spines
O Face
Trandem Trees
Down Days and Thoughts on Snowmobile Skiing
Dope Creek Part 1
Pemberton Icecap
Dope Creek Part 2

1: Voile Ski Straps. This is a great stocking stuffer with tons of uses. I always get the 24″ ones, as the longer ones have the most uses of all at a tiny weight penalty. We recently used one to strap a boot down onto a shattered binding to get us home.

2: Petzyl E-Lite. This tiny light packs a punch and weighs far less than a spare set of batteries for your regular light. In fact, I sometimes wonder why I don’t just use this tiny marvel all the time, it’s so good.

3: Rub-on wax. It’s amazing how sticky snow can get, especially in the spring, or, if you’re like me you don’t wax your skis as often as you should. A good rub-on wax is a great thing to have in your pack.

4: A Good Thermos. Few things in backcountry skiing are as enjoyable as a good hot drink at the top of a skintrack.

5: Approach Gloves. Most backcountry skiers use a light pair of gloves for the skin up, saving their bulkier, warmer gloves for the descent. Brittany has had great luck with these gloves, strong enough to deal with sleds and trailers, too.

6: A good multi-tool. For the knife, pliers, and screwdriver alone, a multi-tool is indispensable for any backcountry pack. This one seems like a nice light choice.

7: A backpack. The Dakine Poacher has been my go-to pack for years. There may be lighter packs out there, but I love this pack for the way it carries and its versatility.

8: The gift of sight. Zeal’s Link goggles are the best helmet compatible goggle out there. They haven’t changed the design for years, with good reason- they simply work. The SPPX lens changes based on the amount of light you’ve got to work with.

9: A brand new pair of skins. There may be other skin choices out there, but these are the gold standard upon which all others are judged.

10: Still Stumped? Take the easy way out and give them a gift certificate from backcountry.com

Happy shopping!

What would Santa leave in our stockings this year? I must have been naughty this year, because Santa gave me a lump of coal…

We parked in Schofield Pass and made a diagonal towards Rock Creek through a beautiful forest:

Discussing whether or not to take this knob to the right or left:

Brittany and I ascended this point, while Pete and John traversed under it to the right. Both ways worked just fine. Brittany ascends with Baldy behind her:

The Northeast face of Galena had several intriguing but short runs coming off the summit. Pete and John can be seen on the ridgeline to the right of the summit:

Frank nearing the summit of Galena:

The views of Snowmass and Capitol never get old from this part of the Elks:

The wide angle view of the Elks, with all the 14ers except Castle visible:

Crystal Peak was directly across the basin, and looks like it would have great skiing once it was a little more filled in:

Enough with the skinning and scenics, on with the skiing! The couloir looked wind affected from the previous few days’ worth of wind, but not bad once we got into it. John Jasper drops in first:

Followed by Pete Sowar:

Brittany dropped in next:

My GoPro camera mounted on my chest mount caught this shot of me as I dropped in myself:

Nothing but smiles after the first pitch:

Pete:

JJ:

Frank:

Santa served me up my lump of coal right after that photo was taken. As I went around the corner, I hit a hollow spot that sent my ski tips under some harder wind affected snow and sent me headfirst down the slope. The true steepness of this line soon became apparent, as it took me three rolls before I finally came to a stop. Since the conditions are still somewhat thin, I was using my old skis and equally old Fritchis, and while they have been basically trouble free over the past 10 or so years, I guess they were ready to be retired. The heel moved on its’ track to a size way bigger than my boot, and the adjustment screw refused to move it back. Great. Only one thing to do. Just 1200′ more of one-ski skiing left to go:

At least everyone else was still having fun, and the snow continued to get better as we descended. John:

Brittany:

Pete, now carrying a little something extra:

Brittany:

Yes, my right leg is still sore. And no, I’m not really making turns look that good with one ski:

Luckily, Jasper was able to fit into my broken ski well enough to shuffle out the flat valley, while I adjusted one of his skis to my smaller boot. It would have been an epic slog out otherwise. Despite the broken gear, this was still a great descent in an amazing zone. All things considered, I’m more interested in skiing aesthetic lines than seeking perfect conditions, and this line qualifies with ease. This stuff will never get old to me:

It’s time to shop for Christmas. Help out 14erskiers.com by shopping the Thanksgiving Day Sale – Up To 30% Off A Bounty Of Outdoor Gear At Backcountry.com. Expires 11/25/2010 At 11:59pm MST.

Once skiers get serious about sled skiing, they will often purchase a rack from Cheetah Factory Racing. They’re nice, but they’re very expensive, and they put the weight of the skis right on the tunnel, which has bent the tunnel of a number of my friends’ sleds.

So, I decided to try my own thing. I’ve seen a number of homemade ski racks, and most of them seem pretty marginal at best. Perhaps my system will fall into the same category, but so far I’m very happy with it. I purchased gun racks from Cabela’s (click on the image at the bottom of this post), and then I tried to figure out how best to attach them to my sled. In the end, the only way I wanted to attach the racks would require welding, which I had done by ACD Welders here in Crested Butte. He was able to weld small brackets directly to my sled as well as tap the holes so I could mount the racks right in them. I added a little bit of rubber padding for shock absorption and lock washers, and voila!, I was done. Some pics:

The welded brackets:

The base of the racks:

Rear rack:

Loaded and ready to go:

I like the location of these mounts a lot. The weight is placed on the running boards and the bumper, both capable of taking some weight. The racks themselves are fairly flexy, so the hope is that both the skis and the snowmobile will be safe and secure with this set-up.

Anyone have an opinion on this set-up? Good, bad, or otherwise? FYI, my total investment is currently $130.

CLICK BELOW: