Category: Travel

TR: From Aspen to CB – Taylor & Star Passes (12 Sept 2010)

Posted by – October 3, 2010

After taking Pearl Pass from Crested Butte to Aspen the previous day with the historic “Pearl Pass Tour“, Frank and I joined 4 other riders for a return ride back to Crested Butte. While Pearl Pass is a scenic, epic, and historic ride, it’s best done just one way. There are other options back to Crested Butte that provide better riding, such as Taylor and Star Passes. This is where we headed.

We left Aspen at 10 am, making our way up the paved Castle Creek Road. From there, we ventured on to the unrelentlessly steep Express Creek Road.
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The two best things about this road: little hike-a-bike, and beautiful leaves. Otherwise, “STEEP” is the word that sticks in my mind.
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TR: Pearl Pass Bike Tour (11 Sept 2010)

Posted by – October 2, 2010

Don Cook couldn’t state it any better: “It’s not about the ride, it’s about the history.” We knew the rocky Pearl Pass was not going to give us the best riding, but we knew the experience would be filled with amazing views and a taste of history. As Frank and I lined up in front of the Crested Butte Museum at 8 am along with 20 other riders, we here happy to be part of the the longest-lived mountain biking event in the world.
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The story goes like this: The Pearl Pass tour is as old as I am. It is said that in 1976, a rowdy group of motorcyclists from Aspen made their way over Pearl Pass and into Crested Butte. They stopped at the no-longer existent Grubstake Bar (which, I believe, was housed in the building most current locals know as the “Old Brick”), bragging about their seemingly impossible feat. Well, Buttians are Buttians, and they wouldn’t be outdone by some ostentatious motorcyclists from Aspen. So, on a September morning, a group of 15 Buttians met outside the Grubstake at 9 am with their clunkers (better known today as “townie” bikes) as their ride. They camped along the way, and the next day, seven riders made their way into Aspen. Those seven riders were Bob Starr, Rick Verplank, Walter Keith, Long Beach, Patty Ann Gifford, Patty Christie and Duane Reading.

A couple of years later, the Pearl Pass ride caught on with the big-wigs. Folks like Wende Cragg, Charlie Kelly, Gary Fisher, and Joe Breeze joined the ranks. Here’s a famous photo from this historic 1978 event.

From left to right: Wende Cragg, Fairfax, CA (Breezer); the infamous “Neil Murdoch,” Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Richard Neilsen, Hotchkiss, CO (’60s Schwinn); Charlie Kelly, San Anselmo, CA (Breezer); Joe Breeze, Mill Valley, CA (Breezer); Jim Cloud, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Bob Starr, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Richard Ullery, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Gary Fisher, San Anselmo, CA (’38 Schwinn); Archie Archiletta, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Chris Carroll, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Albert Maunz, Crested Butte, CO (’50s Schwinn); Michael Castelli, Point Reyes, CA (’30s Schwinn). Read Charlie Kelly’s account of the 1978 ride here.

Pearl Pass became famous.

Photo courtesy of posters on mtbr.com.

Today, the Pearl Pass tour is kept alive by the efforts of the Crested Butte Museum and CB locals Don and Kay Cook. The tour continues as an annual event, leaving from the Museum every September. On this September, Frank and I joined the 34th annual Pearl Pass tour, along with 20 other fine riders.

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TR: Newfoundland- Grand Bank (21 Aug 2010)

Posted by – September 19, 2010

It’s been a long time since I’ve posted anything on this blog. Life has been enormously crazy for these last few weeks. But, now, I’ve finally found the time to post. And I have a lot of TR’s to catch up on! Please bear with me :)

I left off by posting pictures from my trip to Newfoundland and the French island of St. Pierre which lies just off the coast of Canada. I have one trip report left which I’d like to share- from Grand Bank.

We returned to Newfoundland from St. Pierre via the ferry. We had a little time to spare before heading all the way back to St. John’s, so we decided to check out the town of Grand Bank along the way.

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TR: St Pierre on Bikes (20 Aug 2010)

Posted by – August 31, 2010

St Pierre is a beautiful island. But, it’s also a small island with only a few roads. These roads can easily be experienced on a bike.

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The local tourist center directed us to a B&B that also rented bikes. They weren’t the most desirable bikes and they certainly had their issues. Still, they were bikes. And off we went to experience St. Pierre.

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TR: St. Pierre

Posted by – August 30, 2010

Continuing the TR’s from my Newfoundland trip in mid-August, we took a ferry to the island of St. Pierre which is a French colony only a few miles off the coast of Newfoundland. In a short ferry ride, we were whisked into a different country. Despite it’s proximity to Canada, St. Pierre feels distinctly French. French is spoken everywhere (sometimes difficult to find English menus), the Euro is the currency, French wine is plentiful and wonderfully priced, and the even use the Euro-style outlets for their electricity. On top of that, St. Pierre is full of beautiful scenes.

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TR: Newfoundland – Ferry to St. Pierre

Posted by – August 26, 2010

There are numerous small islands that dot the coast surrounding Newfoundland. Strangely, a few of those islands still belong to France. Yep, that’s right- a French colony still remains off the coast of Canada. The islands are called St. Pierre and Miquelon. In only an hour and a half ferry ride from Fortune, Newfoundland you can be in France!

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Photo from Graphic Guide

How exactly just two small islands off of Newfoundland remained part of France is kind of a weird one. But, it’s likely that the French partially kept the islands in order to maintain fishing rights in the area. St. Pierre is rich with 500 years of fishing history.

Shoreline shortly after leaving Fortune.
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The fishing boats are the sea gull’s best friend.
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A whale came to say hello.
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Postcards from Newfoundland

Posted by – August 24, 2010

I have returned home after a week in Newfoundland (Canada) and St. Pierre (France). I still have a few adventures and lots more pictures to blog about from our trip to these places. But, before posting these, I wanted to go back and share a few pictures that were lost in the shuffle when I was trying to post blog entries on the road.

St. John’s
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TR: Newfoundland – Fortune (19 Aug 2010)

Posted by – August 23, 2010

After hitting up the St. John’s area of Newfoundland where we also saw Signal Hill and Cape Spear, we then headed south down to Marystown and then Fortune. Fortune appears a bit stark at first.
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But, if you look a bit closer, you’ll find the real beauty that Fortune has to offer.
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TR: Newfoundland – Cape Spear (18 Aug 2010)

Posted by – August 20, 2010

Not a far drive from St. John’s is Cape Spear. Easily seen from Signal Hill, Cape Spear is the eastern most point in North America.
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The day was foggy, making views more obscure, but perhaps a bit more interesting.
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The sea, crashing against the rocks of the most eastern point in North America.
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TR: Newfoundland – Signal Hill

Posted by – August 19, 2010

Signal Hill is the name given to the hill that stands on the northeast corner of St. John’s harbor.
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The name is appropriately given because military used this hill for signaling- be it using a gun to go off to warn of invasion or fire, or via flags signals. Signal Hill has also been the focus of many battles in recent history. In 1762, the Battle of Signal Hill took place, which resulted in the French surrendering St. John’s to the British, ending the North American Seven Year’s War. During World War II, Signal Hill was viewed as a crucial location to aid in the Allies war in the Atlantic. 1,000 American troops were stationed at Signal Hill to operate four anti-aircraft guns and maintain a 24-hour surveillance of the area.

Another interesting historical event happened on Signal Hill in 1901 when Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless transmission, in this case coming from Poldhu.

From downtown, you can drive up to the lookout of Signal Hill. But, walking doesn’t take long (20-30 minutes) and provides better views. So, we chose to walk. Five minutes from our hotel we saw this:
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