Month: May 2010

TR: I got a white rock on White Rock (26 May 2010) – a tale of Engagement

Posted by – May 28, 2010

After our attempt on Spider face on Sunday, I was itching to get something done. Our big ski lines had brought me too many failures of late- El Diente, Pyramid, and Spider Face. I was frustrated with failures and wanted to ski something relatively easy and fun- something I would enjoy and something that would end this streak of frustration and turn it around into success. I was debating which line to ski….

White Widow?

Or White Rock?
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White Widow was obviously a more aesthetic line. But the skiing would likely be longer and better on White Rock. Both were accessed from the area that we call mini-Queen Basin.

I tried all week to find a partner, but had no luck. It seems that most people are “done skiing” for the season. Sensing my restlessness, Frank agreed to join me for a mid-week adventure, leaning toward White Rock as he had recently skied White Widow while I was off skiing Capitol.

White Rock it was.
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TR: El Nacho (21 May 2010)

Posted by – May 26, 2010

Last week, I tried to keep my schedule open for some more fourteener skiing. But, the weather forecasts kept calling for really high winds. Though some lines are okay to attempt in high winds, my remaining fourteeners are a bit technical- and not peaks I wish to climb during high winds.

So, I convinced Jarrett to join me on an exploration up Copper Creek.
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We originally were hoping to do some lines off of Avery. But, as we approached, we realized the snow line was high on the east-facing aspect we were considering. We’d be hiking a lot for just a few turns if we went up the west side, whereas the snowline reached the valley on the east. So, up the east side we went- to Queen Basin.
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Reinhold Messner on mental strength

Posted by – May 25, 2010

It’s May, and May is time for Everest. If you keep up with the Everest gossip, you know about the achievement of a 13-yr old reaching the summit just last week. It seems like every year there’s some new record on that peak. Though today’s records are certainly great achievements, I also like to recognize achievements of old, remembering amazing revolutionary climbers and alpinists like Reinhold Messner. Messner, with is continuous successes at high altitude climbing solo, and without oxygen, pushed the sport to new levels. His solo no-oxygen climb on Everest proved to the world that humans can accomplish the near-impossible. The video below highlights his achievements and also gives a deeper insight into Messner’s mind. Messner’s attitude is different than many mountaineers- he views that in climbing mountains he is not battling the mountain, he is battling himself and his own mental capabilities. His successes are due more to finding the mental strength within himself than just brute physical strength. Great video to watch- inspiring for all athletes as we each battle our own mental demons.

El Diente Attempt (16 May 2010)

Posted by – May 23, 2010

After finishing Capitol the previous Sunday, the momentum was rolling. I wanted to try to finish skiing my four remaining fourteeners. The weather was looking perfect for a Sunday attempt on El Diente. Frank and I were joined by our friends Ann Driggers, Pete Sowar, John Jasper, and Pam Rice.

We began our hike from Silver Pick and 3:30 in the morning, and were pleasantly surprised to find that we could use skins just a few hundred feet from the car. Tree-fall, however, will be an issue for cars after the snow melts.
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Photo courtesy of Ann Driggers

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Fourteener Frustration: Pyramid Attempt (18 May2010)

Posted by – May 22, 2010

After an attempt to ski El Diente on Sunday (blog entry coming soon), Frank and I spent a day resting and making our way toward Aspen for an attempt on Pyramid. The weather forecast was not looking highly favorable- a 50% chance of snow after noon, but we were hoping to hit the line early, beating the oncoming weather.

A look at the Landry on Pyramid, our preferred route, line on Monday.
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Inspired by a 16-yr old: Jessica Watson

Posted by – May 20, 2010

Growing up on the coast of Lake Erie, sailing on a regular basis, skippering my own boat beginning at age 6, I still find myself immersed in sailing stories like this one. This 16-yr old girl set out seven months ago to sail around the world. Thousands welcomed Jessica home last week into Sydney Harbor. Though this Aussie is too young to drive, she managed to navigate herself around the world, achieving her dream.

What strikes me most is not just her amazing accomplishment, it’s her perspective- something we can all learn from. Jessica’s record for being the youngest person to sail around the world is under hot debate. But, she shrugs it off, saying, “It’s not something that worries me because there always have been and there always will be some people who choose to not acknowledge the record, and for me it wasn’t ever actually about the record, so I’m not worried at all.”

Jessica tops it off with this: “I’m not a hero. I’m an ordinary girl who believed in her dream. You don’t have to be someone special to achieve something amazing. You’ve just gotta have a dream, believe in it, and work hard.”

Today, I was inspired by a 16 year old. Thanks, Jessica!

Read more on CNN.

Congrats to Christy Mahon

Posted by – May 19, 2010

Christy Mahon, formerly known as Christy Sauer, has been tackling fourteeners for the last 10 years or so. This past Sunday, she completed skiing all of the Colorado fourteeners, becoming the first woman to do so.

Christy and I met back in 2008 when we skied Culebra together, along with Frank, Ted Mahon, and Jordan White.

At that time, Christy was well on her way to skiing most of Colorado’s fourteeners, many of which can be viewed on Ted Mahon’s blog. But, in the past year, Christy has been keeping her fourteener accomplishments non-publicized, which has caused some controversy. However, in a personal e-mail she wrote to me regarding this, Christy stated she just didn’t want the added pressure that comes from publishing her fourteeners. Still, long before all of this came to light, I started seeing her name on some of the registers this year, and I knew Christy was about to finish. So, it wasn’t a surprise when word started to spread in the last couple of weeks about Christy skiing Pyramid, leaving one last final peak- Capitol. Her accomplishments came to fruition on Sunday, and Christy became the first woman to ski all of Colorado’s fourteeners. Congratulations Christy!

Many people have asked me how I feel about all of this. Didn’t I want to be the first woman to ski all the Colorado fourteeners? Here’s my answer. Of course I am saddened by the fact that I will not be the first woman. But, I cannot let that deter me. When I initially set my fourteener goals, I wanted to get them done within 5 years. My goal was to ski them all, and ski them all safely. I knew other women were probably out there pursuing the same goal, but I didn’t know who they were at the time. I also knew that there was a high likelihood I would not be the first woman to ski them all. When I began my fourteener project, I told myself that being first would be the icing on the cake. But, finishing them all, and finishing them safely, was most important.

I am a firm believer that when setting goals, you can’t base your goals around the performance of other people. In setting a goal to be first, you are setting a goal around what other people achieve or don’t achieve. Good goal-setting focuses on what YOU can achieve. And I believed I could achieve skiing all the fourteeners in five years. This continues to be my goal.

When I started this project, I really never thought I would be the first woman to ski all the fourteeners. However, at the end of 2008, I found myself ahead of Christy and Pam Rice (a friend and fellow fourteener-skiing woman), with only 9 peaks left. Of course this boosted my confidence, but I knew I still had some of Colorado’s hardest peaks ahead, like Pyramid and Capitol. When I tore my ACL in February of 2009, I basically resigned myself to the fact that I would not likely be the first women, as I had to sit out the entire fourteener season, letting my knee recover from reconstructive surgery. Christy and Pam had the entire spring to jump ahead of me. While Pam decided to wait on the sidelines, foregoing a year of fourteener skiing, Christy took this opportunity to her advantage, jumping ahead of both Pam and I.

Some people have mentioned that I might have become the first woman to ski the fourteeners had I not torn my ACL last year. This might have been the case. But, nothing can ever be certain. Though physically weakening me, tearing my ACL also caused me to build my mental strength which I know has helped me on some peaks this year. Aside from that, I formed new friendships with people who were also undergoing the same recovery. The time I was forced to spend away from skiing, opened professional opportunities for me that would have otherwise not occurred. So, I suppose I will go ahead and say it- although tearing my ACL may have caused me to not be the first woman to ski all the fourteeers, I wouldn’t go back and change anything. I’ve had more positive things come out of tearing my ACL than negative (well, minus the $10,000 in medical bills :) ).

So, my sincerest congratulations goes out to Christy and her job well done. Keep on charging, lady!

TR: Capitol Peak (9 May 2010)

Posted by – May 11, 2010

Friday was a beautiful day. As I strolled down Elk Avenue, I ran into friend after friend. Everyone was out and about enjoying the sunshine. I passed by a group of friends hanging out on the patio at the Brick and inevitably got sucked in. I stayed there for hours, not realizing what the cosmos had planned for me this weekend. Suddenly, I had this feeling that I needed to check my email. Cell phones these days, of course, make this all too convenient. Jordan’s email was the first one I checked, having the intuition that his email was going to relay something big. My gut-feeling proved correct, as he suggested that we attempt a one-day push for Capitol on Sunday.

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Photo of Capitol as seen from Pyramid on Sunday, courtesy of Chris Webster

We’d been planning to attempt Capitol for quite some time- Jordan, Jarrett, Caleb, and I. But, the spring weather wasn’t cooperating. A relentlessly stormy spring has allowed little time for corn or a stable spring snowpack. Our window of opportunity seemed to be closing fast, and we knew we had to take advantage of this sunny weekend. So, the four of us, along with Matt, agreed to meet up for our Sunday attempt.

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Capitol Teaser Pics

Posted by – May 10, 2010

Many of you know that I skied Capitol yesterday. What a peak! I am so happy to have it behind me!

I am surviving on about 2.5 hours of sleep in the last 60 hours. My thoughts are unclear, and I’m still trying to process what just happened. I feel like I’m walking around in some sort of hazy dream world.

What I do know is this: Skiing Capital would not have been possible without my partners Jordan White (jcwhite), Jarrett Luttrell, and Matt Kamper. I owe all of them so much, especially Jordan for all the patient rope-work on the ascent. Big congrats to Jarrett who made the first snowboard descent from the summit and who has just 1 more 14er left on his tick list before becoming the 1st to snowboard all of them!

With the snowpack shaping up the way it was this year, I was doubtful I’d even make an attempt on Capital. Add that to spending the entire winter trying to get my knee stronger from last season’s ACL repair… I didn’t know if my knee was even going to let me do big 14ers like this. But, it all started coming together in mid-April. And I knew then that I was going to do everything possible to get this peak done.

I am far too tired to put together a trip report tonight. I will try my best to get one up tomorrow night. For now, you’ll have to deal with these teaser pics. Thanks all :)

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TR: Ellingwood and Blanca (25 April 2010)

Posted by – May 2, 2010

After hitting Little Bear a week and a half ago I knew Blanca wasn’t really skiable, as can be seen in this picture. Ellingwood is on the left and Blanca is the pile of rocks on the right.

I knew that in order to ski this peak, I’d have to be patient and wait for a nice wet spring storm to come in and cake Blanca with snow, making it a peak more appropriate to it’s name. Well, that storm came sooner than expected. Much better coverage this time!
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Sunday’s plan had originally been to ski Wilson and/or El Diente. With Frank being sick all week, I rallied our friends Chris and Pam to join me. But, upon waking up on Saturday morning and seeing how much snow had fallen in the San Juans, I realized these peaks were not the good choice. Time to shift gears. Snotel was reporting over 7 inches of snowfall in the Sierra Blanca at 10,650′. With spring storms like this, I knew 7 inches could mean a lot more up high. This storm could be what I needed to cover Blanca. Chris and Pam decided to pass this one up. So, I scrambled to find partners. Tom Runcie and Brennan Metzler rose to the occasion, along with AE Films crew Dave and Keith.

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